Pattern Sizing Guide

One of the most confusing aspects of home sewing for beginners is that pattern sizes bear little resemblance to ready-to-wear clothing sizes. A size 14 in a sewing pattern is not the same as a size 14 dress from a department store. Here is what you need to know.

Why Pattern Sizes Are Different

Ready-to-wear sizing has changed dramatically since the 1950s — a process called vanity sizing, where manufacturers gradually reduced the actual measurements corresponding to each size number to make customers feel smaller. A size 10 today contains considerably more fabric than a size 10 from 1960.

Sewing patterns largely preserved the older sizing system, particularly vintage patterns, which is why a size 14 pattern from Simplicity or Butterick may fit someone who wears a ready-to-wear size 8 or 10.

The Big Four Pattern Companies

The major commercial pattern companies — Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's, and Vogue — use similar but not identical sizing. Always check the measurement chart on the pattern envelope, not the size number on the cover.

How to Choose Your Pattern Size

Take your measurements before every project. Do not assume your size is the same across different pattern companies or even different patterns from the same company.

• For tops and bodices: choose by high bust (measure above the bust) to get shoulders and armholes right, then do a Full Bust Adjustment if needed
• For skirts and pants: choose by the largest measurement (usually hips) and adjust the waist down — easier than trying to add hip room
• For dresses: if your bust and hip sizes are very different, consider cutting different sizes at the bust and hip (called grading between sizes)